Tips for Drywalling in Tight Spaces

12. March 2014 02:23 by 1800 Drywall in Tips & Advice  //  Tags:   //   Comments (0)

Installing DrywallHanging drywall in any room requires some experience and strength. Drywalling in tight spaces, however, can make the project much more difficult. Try following these tips when you find yourself drywalling in a tight space.

#1: Cut Drywall in a Larger Space

You'll have a difficult time trying to cut drywall in a tight space. That assumes you can even get a full panel into the room to cut it.

Instead, measure the area that you need to drywall. Actually, measure it two or three times. You need an accurate measurement to do this job properly, so don't try to cut corners.

Once you have the dimensions measured, you can cut the drywall in a larger room. Now you just have to carry the cut drywall into the tight space. You should find that it's much easier to work with a smaller piece of cut drywall than a full panel that knocks against the walls every time you try to move.

#2: Cut Any Holes That You Might Need

You should also cut any holes in the drywall that you might need. If the tight space includes a light switch or electrical outlet, then you need to find the corresponding location on your cut drywall.

Do this by measuring the original space in graph form. That way, you know where all four corners are. You can then take that diagram to your piece of drywall, mark the appropriate area, and cut it out so that it matches the outlet perfectly.

If you've measured correctly, you shouldn't have any problems hanging the drywall so that it lines up with the light switch or outlet.

#3: Take Your Time

Details matter more when you're working in a small space. If you make a little mistake while drywalling a big room, you can cover it up easily. When it comes to small, tight spaces, though, every imperfection stands out.

Take your time so that you measure, cut, and install every piece perfectly. If you make a small mistake, use some drywall filler to repair the damage. If the area is too big to fix with filler, then you might need to cut a new piece of drywall.

It might seem like a hassle, but it will make your work look a lot better.

Have you ever tried to hang drywall in a small, tight space? What problems did you encounter? How did you solve them? 

Tips of Patching and Painting Drywall

20. December 2013 01:26 by 1800 Drywall in Tips & Advice  //  Tags:   //   Comments (0)

Painting Drywall

Of the many reasons that make drywall great for construction and covering walls, one of the top ones is the ease at which it can be fixed or patched up when things go wrong. When accidents do happen, they’re easy to fix. The tools needed to repair drywall mishaps also aren’t expensive, and are easy to keep at hand just in case they’re needed to repair holes and blemishes.

Here are some useful drywall tips.

Patching supplies

Usually, drywall repairs need a joint compound or mud. These supplies are easy to buy and store for future just-in-case use. However, unless you’re fixing a lot of repairs (it does happen) then buying premixed compounds may not be the best idea. This is because they dry out over time and are rendered unusable. Instead, keep a bag of powdered compound on hand, so that it will always be fresh when mixed. Also useful to have are a roll of paper tape and a variety of drywall knives with blades of various lengths, usually up to 10 inches.

Fixing big holes

Large holes require big patch jobs. Whether the hole is from something smashing into the wall or water damage, you’ll have to take the odd-sized hole and cut a rectangular one out of it. Cut it big enough to cover the studs on either end of the damage spot. Leave a ¼ inch width between the edge of the hole and the patch you apply. Next, drive in screws to hold the patch in place, as this is better than using a hammer.

Small holes

If your damage area is only a few inches across – such as those left by doorknobs – then the hole will be too big to fill with a compound, but too small to justify removing surrounding drywall. Instead, fill the wall cavity that sits behind the hole with newspaper and spray foam insulation – enough to fill the hole and leave a bulge behind. After it sets, cut it so that is flush to the wall. This will result in a firm backing that two or three layers of joint compound can be applied to.


The Number One thing to remember about painting is this: primer. Many skip this step, thinking that they’re saving time and money. But primer is important as it helps cover up drywall compound and tape, and it can also absorb some of the paint, meaning one less layer to put down. So don’t pass over the primer stage.

What are the Different Drywall Fire Ratings?

9. August 2013 08:53 by 1800 Drywall in Tips & Advice  //  Tags: , , ,   //   Comments (0)

Drywall Fire RateTo minimize the damage wrought by fires in homes and buildings, many construction companies install specialty drywall that can withstand high degrees of temperature for longer periods of time. This helps to protect wood framing from being affected quicker and also works to isolate fires to the rooms they originate in, at least long enough until help arrives. This better ensures the safety of both the property and its inhabitants. As such, installing higher quality fire-rated drywall could someday potentially mean the difference between having your entire home go up in flames vs. maintaining a degree of its structural integrity. There are certain building codes that developers must pay attention to, such as installing 5/8 inch fire-rated drywall, commonly referred to as Type X, on the walls dividing a house from an attached garage.

However, due to the up front cost and fact that the law does not require it, many homes and buildings are equipped with standard 1/2 inch drywall, which typically fails within 30 minutes of being exposed to fire. Compare this to the 1 hour burn rate of Type X, and you can begin to see the importance of paying for better quality material. It is worth noting, however, that no type of wallboard is invulnerable; fire-rated only means the material will remain standing longer, but it should also be noted that those extra 30 minutes can be life-changing. At any rate, here is some helpful information regarding drywall fire ratings, as well as why you may want to consider choosing the upgraded option.

Understanding Drywall Fire Ratings

  • Standard drywall is 1/2” thick and yields a burn time of 30 minutes, although this data is inconclusive and is not guaranteed for each occurrence.
  • Type X has an extra 1/8” thick layer of gypsum, a material containing a portion of chemically infused water and glass fiber, which give it its enhanced fire resistant properties.
  • Type C is basically an upgraded version of Type X, as it has a stronger gypsum core. It comes in both 1/2” and 5/8” sheets, and has a factory-tested fire rating of up to 4 hours for walls and 3 hours for ceilings.
  • It cannot be stressed enough that the assessed burn times for each rating are not clearly defined. Depending on the temperature level inside the room and the condition of the drywall, the time it takes for structural integrity to be affected is variable.
  • Equipping your home with fire-rated drywall (Type X or C) alone is not enough to prevent flames from spreading. Rooms with non-fire-rated doors, for instance, are that much more vulnerable than those that do not.
  • Due to the cost of the material, Type C is typically not installed in single-family homes. Type X can provide superior protection and still forestall the effects of flames in time for the fire department to arrive.

How much can you Expect to Bend Drywall and How to do it Right

15. March 2013 20:57 by 1800 Drywall in Tips & Advice  //  Tags:   //   Comments (0)

How to Bend Drywall

Bending drywall takes a bit of practice, but with some time, it can be done easily. Most tight spaces can be drywalled if you have the know-how. For most curves, you can simply wet the board and bend it to the required degree. For tighter curves, the drywall can be scored. To do this right, you’ll have to take it step-by-step and here’s how.

Choosing the Drywall

Make sure you have the right size drywall for the curve you have. Thin drywall will break if it is bent too much. Try using the following specs when choosing a thickness for the proper curve:

    • 15-foot radius: 5/8 in.
    • 10-foot radius: ½ in.
    • 7-foot radius: 3/8 in.
    • 5-foot radius: ¼ in.


All you will need to bend drywall is some water, a sponge and a scoring knife. For a wider circumference, you will not need the scoring knife. If you don’t have a sponge, try using a paint roller or another item that can wet large surfaces with relative ease.

Wetting the Drywall

Start by wetting both sides of the drywall with the sponge. It won’t take much water, and you should start to notice the drywall becoming more pliable before too long. Be careful not to use too much water, because the drywall will start to break.

If you have a particularly tight radius, score the drywall every 1-2 in., as well as wet the board. When creating the curve, let the paper only slightly break as you bend it.

Forming the Curve

If you have a form in which to put the drywall, use it to create the curve of the drywall. You can also bend the drywall into the shape of the radius and leave it overnight until it dries. Do not try to put up your drywall before it dries. Once the drywall has dried, it will hold its form.

Be careful about how much pressure you put on the drywall, too much and it will snap. The next day you’ll be ready to nail down your drywall and move onto bigger and better things.

Practice Patience

Take your time when you take on this project. A rushed job can end up in multiple pieces of scrap drywall on your floor and none on your walls. Don’t force the form, use a firm but careful approach when bending your drywall.

It may take a few pieces of drywall before you get the hang of how to bend it, so you might want to purchase an extra sheet or two for those ‘just-in-case’ moments. With a bit of practice, you’ll be bending drywall like a pro. 

Where and When to Install Moisture and Mold Resistant Drywall

11. February 2013 23:00 by 1800 Drywall in Tips & Advice  //  Tags: , ,   //   Comments (0)

Where and When to Install Moisture and Mold Resistant Drywall

Just about the only other organism that loves paper just as much as we do is mold. When you put up your drywall and get water on it, it's like building a condominium and giving out free food for life – the area will get populated. The best way to stop creating prime real estate for mold is to ensure you have the proper type of drywall in your home.

The Case for Your Space

Drywall comes in a variety of different forms. Most people are familiar with Gypsum-board, which is not waterproof and provides no resistance to the outside elements. If you are concerned about moisture or mold, you will need to invest in moisture and mold resistance drywall, so you can keep the outside, outside.

If you're thinking about getting drywall and aren't sure whether or not you need moisture resistant or regular, think about whether or not you are in a space that can easily leak moisture or not.

Green or Gray?

Basements are a common culprit of moisture and mold sweating. The same way that you see moisture build up on the outside of a glass, the temperature outside has the potential to create moisture or mold on the inside of your home. This is a classic case of somewhere you would want to get some resistant drywall.

Most of us love a hot shower on a cold day. The longer that heat remains on, the more moisture is created that can seep into walls in your home. Your bathroom can be a hotbed for moisture; thus, a great breeding ground for mold. Using moisture resistant drywall can be used as a preventative measure against the build-up of mold in your home. Of course, there are situations in the bathroom that drywall could make worse, such as putting water resistant drywall behind ceramic tiles.

Do you have a finished attic? Your roof is exposed to the elements every day of the year, and this means that there is a good chance there will be damage to it at some point. With your attic just below, it might be a good idea to use the drywall that will protect whatever you've put in your attic.

Should you have regular drywall in your home and encounter moisture or mold issue, when replacing the drywall, it is probably best to replace it with drywall that can prevent this problem in the future.

Drywall in Paint Form?

There may be those of us out there who believe that if they simply put enough paint over the drywall, it will act as a sealant and prevent them from having to invest in resistant drywall. The truth is: if any moisture or mold seeps through the paint, you've just wasted a boat-load of paint and drywall, and you'll now have to pay for more drywall – hopefully, the right stuff this time.

Knowing which drywall to use at which time can save you money, and I mean thousands of dollars in preventable repairs. It's worth it spending the extra few bucks and getting yourself the right stuff.

Tips for Running Perfect Angles

29. November 2012 00:05 by 1800 Drywall in Tips & Advice  //  Tags: , ,   //   Comments (1)

Drywall professionals end up refining their trade into an art and running angles is one of the jobs that differ between many individuals in the trade. One of the most common issues that require troubleshooting is running angles that are too heavy. Over the years, there have been a number of tips to run perfect angles.  We’re not installers, but for all the right materials visit our Products Page.

The Top Ten Tips for Running Angles

  1. When using mechanical angle heads, check the side blades. The side blades should always look even and level. If the blades are sloping down toward the nose cone, this could cause running angles that are too heavy.
  2. One of the simplest solutions to avoiding heavy running angles is a runny mix. Try thickening the cement mix before looking into alternative tool options and other troubleshooting methods.
  3. However, if the mud-mix is too heavy this could cause technique to be thrown off due to pushing too hard. This also causes heavy running angles. Drywall pros should experiment with their mixtures until they have discovered the perfect consistency that works for their tools, technique and individual preferences.
  4. Many professionals have discovered that the problem has been in the way that they handle their tools. The pressure should be centered when running angles and pressure that is off to one side or the other could significantly impact the overall finished product. For example, too much pressure to one side will leave one side light and the other heavy.
  5. Sometimes using a smaller angle head to finish the job does the trick. If you are using a 3 or3.5” head, change the size to 2” or so to finish. A larger angle head is harder to push with and could be causing heavy angles.
  6. Check framing. Bad framing could be the source of heavy angles. Keep the box in the angle.
  7. One tip that has worked for many drywall professionals is to coat in one or two passes, then skim the edges with a knife. After the mixture sets, adjust out the mechanical heads for the best results.
  8. In some cases, even industry veterans worry that a thin mixture will get on the floor and become messy. The mix is easily cleaned and if having a thinner mixture refines technique, mixing thinner could be worth considering for an overall cleaner presentation and reducing the thickness of the angles.
  9. Taping with a zooka, rolling and flushing with a 2.5” head has worked, in combination with skimming angles by hand, with a thinner mixture.
  10. When applying with a tube, application may not be even and this will affect the finished result, when it is not caught by rolling or flushing.

These are ten tips that have assisted drywall professionals with perfecting their angles. There should also be a mention of getting well acquainted with new tools and practicing with any new equipment before it is used in a professional environment. In many cases, new tools need to be “broken in” by the owner for the best results.

More Drywall Tips:

Before any project, make sure you will go through our drywall insulation tips and get to know the best drywall tips and techniques. For a professional looking finished product, please reference our tips to properly plan the job, including materials needed, application methods and tools needed for the job.

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