Drywall can do much more than add walls to your home. With a little creativity, you can turn drywall into one of your house's most attractive features.
#1: Use Drywall Returns for a Seamless Look
Thanks to drywall returns, you don't need wood trims around your windows. By installing drywall returns, you create seamless walls that emphasize a modern aesthetic.
You can also use drywall returns to connect rooms. For instance, installing an empty window between your kitchen and dining room makes it easy to serve food.
#2: Use Drywall Cut Outs to Make Curved Doorways
Most homes have rectangular doorways. There's nothing wrong with that, but it certainly doesn't add anything fresh or exciting to rooms.
Cutting out drywall, however, lets you create curved doorways. It's something small that you can do to make your home look different from everyone else's.
For an even more creative look, paint the inside of the arched doorway a different color than the walls.
#3: Add Texture to Make Drywall Unique
Instead of sanding drywall so that it's smooth, add texture that will make it more unique. You can choose from several techniques that turn otherwise boring walls into decorations.
Some options you might consider include:
- splatter techniques
- skip trowel
- Santa Fe
Explore these and other texture designs to find one that looks best in your home.
#4: Create a Built-In Entertainment Center
Many people build recessed shelves that offer safe, convenient places for storage or decorations. You can take that concept an extra step by building a recessed entertainment center. This adds more space to your home and makes everything seem a little more streamlined.
Building a drywall entertainment center takes some planning, but it is relatively easy to do. You can even find plans and tutorials online to get you started.
Remember that you can customize your entertainment center to match the dimensions and architecture of your home.
#5: Use Wood to Break Up Drywall Panels
Placing rood panels between drywall adds depth and color to rooms. This often works well in large rooms, where even painted walls can look a little boring. When you add natural wood panels to the walls, they often bring out elements that you wouldn't otherwise notice.
A single panel can make all the difference.
You can also use brick, stone, or tile to similar effects. Choose a material that looks good with your home's colors, furniture, and decorations.
There’s an old saying that only two things in life are certain: death and taxes. When it comes to installing drywall, however, there’s really one thing that is guaranteed – dust. As drywall has to be sanded down to smooth it out and fix and imperfections, the result will be a thin layer of drywall dust covering nearby objects. Getting rid of these unwanted particles is really the final stage in any drywall project.
But don’t fret – dust can be swiftly removed if you stick with the following tips.
- Step number one is to seal off the room where the drywall was installed from the rest of the home. This means shutting doors if possible, or hanging plastic sheets in the door frame, as this cuts down on the spread of the dust.
- Next, get a microfiber cloth and dampen it. This is the Swiss army knife of dust removal. With this cloth, wipe away as much dust as you can from surfaces in the room – be it countertops or walls or lamps, wipe anything with dust on it. Make sure you rinse the cloth repeatedly as you clean.
- Grab a trusty broom and sweep the floors thoroughly, gathering the dust in the correctly named dustpan and tossing it in the trash. The more you get with the broom means less dust in your vacuum cleaner, as this can wear down the machines.
- Open a window, removing any bug screens, and set up a standing floor fan in front of it with the fan pointing out the window. Crank the fan to the highest speed and leave it on. This will push dust out of the room. It’s a good idea to do this while sweeping, as any dust kicked up by the broom will fly out the window.
- At this point you will be left with only the most hardy of dust deposits. This is time to bring in the big guns – namely a wet/dry vacuum cleaner. As you clean, make sure to clear out the vacuum’s catcher repeatedly, to keep it working properly. After the wet/dry has got as much as it can, use a regular vacuum cleaner with hand-held attachments to get in the tight spots such as the spaces in the corners and just above the floors along the walls.
The last stage in installing drywall is the finishing process – a section the following tips will guide you through. This stage comes after the fresh drywall has been hung in place. You should have on hand the following tools and equipment: joint or drywall tape, 200 grit sandpaper, sanding mesh, drywall knives, a pole sander and also joint compound.
To finish drywall the right way requires three coats to be applied. The thing to remember here is that there must be a 24-hour gap between each coat going on (a process that itself can take several hours).
The first coat will go along the drywall’s seams, and be about six inches wide – so the secret here is to use a six-inch knife with rounded edges. After this, take your tape and stick it over the drywall compound. This will not only help prevent cracking but also cover up the seams. Also be sure to cover and screws or nails sticking out in the drywall.
Drywall tape can be paper or fiberglass mesh. If the latter, the tape will more or less stick in place on its own. Fiberglass tape also works best with a quick-drying compound made from powder – but this material can be a bit trick for drywall newcomers to use, so first-timers should consider paper tape.
Either way, the tape should go on as one single piece and be pushed right into the compound about once every foot. After this, take your knife and run it down the wall so that it smoothes out the tape.
For coat number two, apply it slightly wider than coat number one, covering the tape and also the seams. A bigger knife – eight-inches is usually best – works best for this stage. Once again, cover up any screws and also use a layer of drywall compound in the corners.
The third and final coat should go on about a foot wide and smeared so that it blends with the drywall. The trick here is to water down the compound a bit or use a finishing-coat compound. You can continue using the knife from the second coat here. Key for this coat is that the compound feather and merge with the drywall. Leave it to dry, and don’t worry about any imperfections – they can be smoothed out with a damp sponge or fixed with sandpaper. If the problem area is on a ceiling, use a pole sander to run sandpaper along problem spots.
Drywall that gets exposed to excessive moisture or flooding often develop mold that can create unhealthy living conditions, not to mention odd smells and an unattractive appearance. Many people assume that they have to tear out any drywall that has developed mold. In some instances, though, it's possible to remove mold from drywall. This can help you save a lot of money and time.
Removing Mold With Rapid Drying
Mold needs a moist environment to survive. If you can make the environment inhospitable, then the mold often dies.
That means you can remove mold by drying the affected drywall. The drying must happen very quickly. If the mold has a chance to live for 48 hours or more, it could still spread by releasing spores into the air.
Homeowners can use rapid drying to kill off developing mold, but the method works best when the drywall has only been exposed to a small amount of water. Floodwater can seep deep into walls, making it preferable to call a professional who knows how to choose a rapid drying method suitable to your specific room.
Removing Mold With Chemicals
If you have drywall that has been painted or coated, you can often use chemical cleaners to kill and remove mold.
Make sure you only use chemical cleaners in a well ventilated room. Some chemicals release gases that can make you sick. Open the windows and turn on a fan to increase air circulation.
Now, you can choose a cleaning agent that you think will work well. Popular options include:
- Baking soda and water. Mix one part of baking soda with five parts water for an extremely mild cleaner that can kill mold.
- Vinegar can also work well. Some people mix vinegar with water, but you can also use pure vinegar. Other than an unpleasant smell, vinegar won't cause any problems.
- Detergent also provides a safe way to clean mold. Mix the detergent with a small amount of water so that you can wash the walls and kill the mold. It's best to use an unscented detergent since scented options can mask the tell-tale smell of mold.
- Bleach will kill just about anything. It can also release noxious gases. If you decide to use bleach, double your ventilation to make sure you don't get sick.
In most cases, you'll want to put your cleaning chemical in a spray bottle so you can soak the moldy area. Scrub the area with a brush to remove the mold. Always wear rubber gloves and a face mask for extra safety.
After you've cleaned the drywall, turn on your fans so you can dry out the walls as quickly as possible. The faster you dry the walls, the easier it is to keep mold at bay.
Some people run into difficulty when they try to install rigid insulation behind drywall. If you don't have a lot of experience, it's easy to make mistakes. These easy techniques will have you installing rigid insulation without any problems.
Inspect And Prepare Your Wall Frames
Start your project by inspecting your wall frames. You should find any moisture. If you do, identify the source and eliminate it. You'll also need to use silicone sealant to prevent water from getting into the frame. Even a little bit of water could cause dangerous mold.
Measure and Cut Your Insulation
You need to know how much insulation you'll need for your walls. You can do this by measuring each wall. Remember, though, that the wall looks different underneath the drywall. Most importantly, you'll find wall studs.
Since you want to install the insulation between the studs, you have to account for them when measuring the wall. Test your studs to see how far apart they are. Then you can measure the area accurately.
Use a utility knife to cut the insulation so that it will fit between the studs. In many cases, the utility knife won't cut through the rigid insulation. That's okay. Use your knife to score the material, then you can break it easily.
Use Adhesive to Install the Panels
Construction adhesive will hold rigid insulation in place quickly. Use it to coat the back of your insulation. Fit the insulation into the proper place and push it so you know it makes good contact with the adhesive.
If you have any seams between your insulation panels, use duct tape to bridge the pieces. This will make your insulation more effective.
Apply a Layer of Plastic
Putting up plastic along your insulation will improve moisture resistance. Some people skip this step, but doing so is risky, especially if you live in an area with a lot of moisture. If at all possible, you should cover the entire insulation with a plastic sheet.
Put Up the Drywall
Now that you've installed the rigid insulation and a layer of plastic, you can hang your drywall. You don't even have to follow any special instructions. Just put the drywall up as you normally would. Now that you know where the studs are, you shouldn't have any problems nailing the drywall to the right places.
Have you ever encountered difficulty while installing rigid insulation behind drywall? What do you think went wrong?
You don't always need to hire an expert for installing drywall. The average person can handle most of the work without any professional experience. Some basic information should get you started.
The following directions will teach you how to tape and mud drywall. If you follow them, you should find that you spend less time sanding imperfections. That means less work and time for your drywalling project.
#1: Put your drywall compound on flat tray that makes it easier for you to scoop with your knives.
#2: Apply the first coat of compound. Use a six-inch drywall knife to fill in holes made by screws and nails. If you find any protruding screws, hammer them in before filling the holes with compound.
#3: Use your six-inch knife to fill horizontal seams between the drywall panels. Remember to keep the compound as smooth as possible.
#4: Put tap on the horizontal seams before the compound has a chance to dry.
#5: Use an eight-inch drywall knife to apply compound over the tape.
#6: Use a six-inch knife to apply a thin layer of compound to the wall's inside corners. It's best to start at the top and work your way down to the floor.
#7: Cut a piece of tape to match the wall's height. Fold the tape in half and press it into the corner. Smooth the tape against the wall with a corner trowel. You may need to dip the trowel in water so that it can glide smoothly along the tape.
#8: Use tape to cover vertical seams between drywall panels. Don't overlap the vertical tape with the horizontal tape. Doing so could create a bulge in the finished drywall. Use a six-inch knife to apply compound over the tape.
#9: Spray adhesive on corner beams and attach them to any corners. Apply a liberal amount of compound over the beams.
#10: Let the compound dry for at least 12 hours.
#11: Use an eight-inch knife to apply a coat of compound to the seams and corners. Make the second layer about two inches wider than the first layer.
#12: Give the second coat at least 12 hours to dry.
#13: Sand any rough areas before applying the third coat.
#14: Use water to thin the compound. This helps the final coat dry faster.
#15: Apply the final layer with a 10-inch or 12-inch knife. Extend the layer two inches farther than the second.
#16: Use a damp sponge to smooth any rough areas and remove unwanted dust from the wall.
If you follow these instructions, you should get a smooth finish that makes it easy for you to prime the wall for painting.
We are delighted to announce that our company, 1-800 Drywall has just won a HomeStars ‘Best of 2013’ Award! This coveted award goes to the one company in each category that earned the highest reputation ranking last year, based on thousands of reviews made by homeowners on the homestars.com website.
These awards began in 2008 to distinguish the very best home improvement companies from the rest. According to HomeStars Founder, Nancy Peterson, “We created the Best of Awards to recognize the best-of-the-best in each category.” These awards help us achieve our mission to be the most trusted source for drywall and insulation supplies in Canada. Homeowners and contractors will continuously have the best experience in drywall delivery service – before, during and after the order is taken.
A special note to our valued customers: If you took the time in 2013 to write a review on homestars.com about the service we provided you – a big thank you! Because your review helped us win the award. And if you did not write a review yet, it would be greatly appreciated since it helps build our company’s online reputation.
I invite you to see all our homeowner reviews by going to Homestars.com and then typing 1-800 Drywall into the search bar at the top of the page.
Hanging drywall in any room requires some experience and strength. Drywalling in tight spaces, however, can make the project much more difficult. Try following these tips when you find yourself drywalling in a tight space.
#1: Cut Drywall in a Larger Space
You'll have a difficult time trying to cut drywall in a tight space. That assumes you can even get a full panel into the room to cut it.
Instead, measure the area that you need to drywall. Actually, measure it two or three times. You need an accurate measurement to do this job properly, so don't try to cut corners.
Once you have the dimensions measured, you can cut the drywall in a larger room. Now you just have to carry the cut drywall into the tight space. You should find that it's much easier to work with a smaller piece of cut drywall than a full panel that knocks against the walls every time you try to move.
#2: Cut Any Holes That You Might Need
You should also cut any holes in the drywall that you might need. If the tight space includes a light switch or electrical outlet, then you need to find the corresponding location on your cut drywall.
Do this by measuring the original space in graph form. That way, you know where all four corners are. You can then take that diagram to your piece of drywall, mark the appropriate area, and cut it out so that it matches the outlet perfectly.
If you've measured correctly, you shouldn't have any problems hanging the drywall so that it lines up with the light switch or outlet.
#3: Take Your Time
Details matter more when you're working in a small space. If you make a little mistake while drywalling a big room, you can cover it up easily. When it comes to small, tight spaces, though, every imperfection stands out.
Take your time so that you measure, cut, and install every piece perfectly. If you make a small mistake, use some drywall filler to repair the damage. If the area is too big to fix with filler, then you might need to cut a new piece of drywall.
It might seem like a hassle, but it will make your work look a lot better.
Have you ever tried to hang drywall in a small, tight space? What problems did you encounter? How did you solve them?
Of the many reasons that make drywall great for construction and covering walls, one of the top ones is the ease at which it can be fixed or patched up when things go wrong. When accidents do happen, they’re easy to fix. The tools needed to repair drywall mishaps also aren’t expensive, and are easy to keep at hand just in case they’re needed to repair holes and blemishes.
Here are some useful drywall tips.
Usually, drywall repairs need a joint compound or mud. These supplies are easy to buy and store for future just-in-case use. However, unless you’re fixing a lot of repairs (it does happen) then buying premixed compounds may not be the best idea. This is because they dry out over time and are rendered unusable. Instead, keep a bag of powdered compound on hand, so that it will always be fresh when mixed. Also useful to have are a roll of paper tape and a variety of drywall knives with blades of various lengths, usually up to 10 inches.
Fixing big holes
Large holes require big patch jobs. Whether the hole is from something smashing into the wall or water damage, you’ll have to take the odd-sized hole and cut a rectangular one out of it. Cut it big enough to cover the studs on either end of the damage spot. Leave a ¼ inch width between the edge of the hole and the patch you apply. Next, drive in screws to hold the patch in place, as this is better than using a hammer.
If your damage area is only a few inches across – such as those left by doorknobs – then the hole will be too big to fill with a compound, but too small to justify removing surrounding drywall. Instead, fill the wall cavity that sits behind the hole with newspaper and spray foam insulation – enough to fill the hole and leave a bulge behind. After it sets, cut it so that is flush to the wall. This will result in a firm backing that two or three layers of joint compound can be applied to.
The Number One thing to remember about painting is this: primer. Many skip this step, thinking that they’re saving time and money. But primer is important as it helps cover up drywall compound and tape, and it can also absorb some of the paint, meaning one less layer to put down. So don’t pass over the primer stage.
Homeowners often have some flexibility when using drywall during renovation projects. In some cases, you can install drywall over paneling without any problems. In others, you should consider taking the paneling down before hanging the drywall.
If you can answer "yes" to the following questions, then you can probably hang drywall over your paneling. If you answer "no," then it's best to take the paneling down so you can hang drywall directly on the wall studs.
#1: Can You Find the Wall Studs?
Thin paneling usually makes it easier to find wall studs. You just have to push in on the paneling so that it sinks. When you find a place that doesn't move, you've found a stud.
Once you have found all of the studs, you can make small pencil marks on your drywall showing where to put the screws.
Thick paneling makes this job harder because it doesn't offer as much "give" that helps you find the studs.
#2: Is Your Paneling Flat?
Over time, moisture can cause paneling to warp, creating a wavy surface that makes it difficult to hang drywall properly.
Flat paneling that doesn't cause your drywall to slant, however, shouldn't present any problems. As long as the paneling is flat, you can usually hang drywall over it.
#3: Do You Plan to Hang Your Drywall With Screws?
Screws make it easy for you to hang drywall on top of paneling, assuming that you can find the studs behind the paneling. Just make sure your screws are long enough to anchor the drywall even after going through the paneling. This is another reason that thin paneling makes it easier to hang drywall.
If you prefer hanging drywall with glue so that you never have to worry about screws popping out, then you should remove the paneling. Otherwise, you can't glue the drywall directly to the studs.
#4: Do You Need to Do the Job Quickly?
Hanging drywall on top of paneling saves you the time and hassle of removing paneling from the studs. If that appeals to you (and you've answered "yes" to the above questions), then you should probably hand the drywall on the paneling.
If you don't mind doing a little extra work, then you might as well remove the paneling. Putting drywall on top of paneling might work fine, but it will create more work in the future if you ever need to hand new drywall. While you can put the drywall on top of paneling, you shouldn't hang drywall on top of old drywall.
Have you ever tried to put drywall over paneling? Did it work for you, or did you eventually decide that it was easier to take down the paneling?